上一篇提過不同的尺子,這篇就補充一下不同尺子的分別。圖一是不同尺子的直接比較,由上向下分別是厘米尺、英尺、市尺、唐尺、鯨尺/和裁尺。
厘米尺和英尺沒啥好說的。市尺是民國19年(1930年)開始實行的尺度,採用十進制(每十分為一寸,每十寸為一尺),一尺等如33.33厘米,內地的朋友應該不會陌生。唐尺是香港和廣州晚清時期用的尺度,同樣採用十進制,香港度量衡條例列明:一尺等如37.1475厘米。現時除了部分中式裁縫,紥作和玉器行業仍然使用唐尺。不過,一般香港人不會叫「唐尺」,而是叫它「百子千孫尺」,因為結婚過大禮必然要有它!從前香港小孩不聽話,除了雞毛掃,還有百子千孫尺侍候,不過不是現今的膠尺,而是木尺!鯨尺/和裁尺是日本江戶時期用的裁衣尺度,也是採用十進制,一尺相當於37.88厘米。由圖一可見,鯨尺和唐尺相差很少,做花紐時替代使用完全沒有問題。
出於好奇,我拿了1969年出版、修廣翰編著《最新褀袍裁製法下冊》一書中的花紐扣譜,用同一個款、同一個尺寸,以不同的尺子做了一遍,得出了圖二的結果。書上的扣譜並無寫明所用的單位尺寸,但是全書採用厘米,或許可以默認扣譜也是使用厘米。不過我覺得以1單位=10mm做出來的花紐實在太大了,放在衣服上不合比例。似乎1單位=5mm比較合適。不過,花紐的大小不是這篇的重點,重點是:這種花紐扣譜,只要是用十進制的尺子,都可以做出來,所以要放大縮小也很便利,選一個合心意的尺子就行了。
事實上,上一輩港澳地區的花紐師傅,其實做扣子時根本不需要用尺子,單憑目測,就能夠拿捏花紐不同部分的比例和大小。這種能力,廣東話叫「打眼則」。後輩很難掌握,所以現在只好用尺子了。當然,若果要大量製作花紐,尺寸又要完全統一,尺子仍然是必要的工具。
Photo 1 shows a comparison of several traditional rulers in Asia. From top to bottom: Metric ruler, Inch ruler, Chi (Chinese Units of 1930), Cantonese ruler, Kujirajaku (Japanese ruler).
In Hong Kong, we used to use Cantonese ruler for cheongsam and flower button making. Now some craftsmen changed to metric or inch ruler. But flower button making still uses Cantonese ruler as it’s more practical. In reality, older generation flower button craftsmen didn’t rely much on the ruler. They mainly used the ruler for measuring the length of materials. When making the buttons, most of them just rely on visual measurement. New generation craftsmen (like me) learnt the craft with a ruler measurement from the first day, so our habits changed as well, and we are much relying on the tool than our previous generations.
Out of curiosity, I took a flower button pattern from an old book, trying to use different measuring system to make the same pattern, and Photo 2 is the result. Though the size of flower button is a personal preference, but too big is definitely not fine enough, and too small is not practical for usage. In this chart, I think the “1=5mm” one is a good size for cheongsam button.