往日的精緻 Antique Flower Button found in Malaysia

這一對花紐,來自馬來西亞檳城張弼士故居(現為一所酒店)內一件長衫展品,感謝網友Sheyla提供照片🙏。它的設計巧妙,匠人運用餘料叠加層次,令原本簡單的花型變得豐富。復刻這一款的最大難度,是每一個、每一層的小弧都要用針線釘穩,而且要盡量做到分配平均。若然手汗比較多,恐怕還未釘縫好,花紐就已經被弄得發軟了。

往日的精緻,今天真的很難再見。民國時期的花紐紐頭,直徑一般都在6、7mm之間。按照這個比例調整照片的尺寸,就會發現其實這一款花紐並不是很大,紐耳的部分其實只有2.5cm左右。所以這條不是特別高的領子才可以釘上兩對小花紐。相比之下,今天絕大部分花紐都是超級加大碼了!

想要玩一下這款花紐的朋友,留意圖上的尺寸為唐分(1分=3.7mm)。若無唐尺,可以考慮以1/8英寸為1分,或是採用日本和裁尺取代。其實內地市尺亦可以用,不過圖中尺寸用市尺來做的話,做出來的扣子會比我這一個更小,即是會更加難做。這一款花紐,倒轉過來像極了一朵盛開的花,做成胸針應該會很不錯的。

This flower button is found on a cheongsam exhibited in Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion (now a hotel) in Penang, Malaysia. It is rare to see such a big flower button on a 1930s cheongsam, and the button design is also quite unusual. Probably the craftsman used left over material to create layers of petals, that gave extra volume and multiple color to the button. Each little petals needed to be stitched to keep them in place, so there is lots of stitching work to do.

If you want to try your hand, the dimensions on the pattern are in traditional Chinese units (1unit = 3.7mm). If you don’t have a Chinese ruler, you can convert the dimensions to metric system, or using 1 unit = 1/8 inch as a replacement.

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