{"id":832,"date":"2024-02-27T22:24:36","date_gmt":"2024-02-27T14:24:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/chineseblog.loksze.com\/?p=832"},"modified":"2024-02-27T23:29:03","modified_gmt":"2024-02-27T15:29:03","slug":"%e9%b1%94%e9%aa%a8%e7%b8%ab%ef%bc%8c%e4%b8%ad%e5%bc%8f%e5%8c%85%e9%aa%a8%e5%b7%a5%e8%97%9d%e5%9c%96%e8%a7%a3-traditional-chinese-seam-eels-bone-seam","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/chineseblog.loksze.com\/?p=832","title":{"rendered":"\u9c54\u9aa8\u7e2b\uff0c\u4e2d\u5f0f\u5305\u9aa8\u5de5\u85dd\u5716\u89e3 Traditional Chinese seam – Eel\u2019s bone seam"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u53bb\u5e74\u516b\u6708\u5728\u9999\u6e2f\u7406\u5de5\u5927\u5b78\u300a\u6062\u5f18\u7d93\u5178\uff0d\u9999\u6e2f\u7537\u88dd\u9577\u886b\u88fd\u4f5c\u6280\u85dd\u53ca\u975e\u7269\u8cea\u6587\u5316\u907a\u7522\u50b3\u627f\u7814\u8a0e\u6703\u300b\u5206\u4eab\u904e\u4e2d\u5f0f\u7537\u88dd\u7684\u5305\u9aa8\u5de5\u85dd\u3002\u7576\u6642\u6c92\u6709\u88fd\u4f5c\u904e\u7a0b\u7684\u7167\u7247\uff0c\u53ea\u80fd\u900f\u904e\u5716\u89e3\u7565\u8aaa\u88fd\u4f5c\u904e\u7a0b\u3002\u518d\u505a\u4e00\u6b21\u829d\u9ebb\u7d17\u7537\u88dd\u55ae\u9577\u886b\uff0c\u88fd\u4f5c\u671f\u9593\u4e0d\u5fd8\u62cd\u7167\u5b58\u6a94\u3002\u73fe\u5728\u6574\u7406\u7814\u8a0e\u6703\u7576\u65e5\u5206\u4eab\u7684\u8cc7\u6599\uff0c\u4ee5\u53ca\u88fd\u4f5c\u671f\u9593\u7684\u7167\u7247\uff0c\u4fdd\u7559\u4e00\u500b\u300c\u5305\u9aa8\u300d\u5de5\u85dd\u6bd4\u8f03\u5b8c\u6574\u7684\u8a18\u9304\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u9c54\u9aa8\u7e2b\uff0c\u4e2d\u5f0f\u5305\u9aa8\u5de5\u85dd\uff0c\u4e00\u822c\u7528\u65bc\u4e2d\u5f0f\u670d\u88dd\u7528\u6599\u8f03\u70ba\u8f15\u8584\u7684\u55ae\u886b(\u7121\u593e\u88e1\u8863\u670d\uff09\uff0c\u4e3b\u8981\u7528\u65bc\u4e2d\u7e2b\u548c\u63a5\u99c1\u8896\u7247\uff0c\u5927\u88c1\u8932\u62fc\u5408\u8932\u8960\u4e5f\u6709\u7528\u4e0a(\u6ce8\u4e00)\u3002\u9019\u7a2e\u5c07\u56db\u5c64\u5e03\u6599\uff0d\u5169\u5c64\u9762\u5e03\u3001\u5169\u5c64\u7e2b\u5206\u7e2b\u5408\u7684\u5de5\u85dd\uff0c\u4ee4\u55ae\u8584\u7684\u8863\u670d\u63a5\u7e2b\u8b8a\u5f97\u7570\u5e38\u7262\u56fa\uff0c\u4e0d\u6613\u8b8a\u5f62\u6216\u958b\u88c2\u3002\u7e2b\u9aa8\u53ea\u95ca\u5510\u5bf81\u5206\uff08\u7d044\u6beb\u7c73\uff09\uff0c\u4e7e\u6de8\u4fd0\u843d\uff0c\u88e1\u88e1\u5916\u5916\u90fd\u5f88\u597d\u770b\u3002\u82e5\u7136\u5920\u81bd\u5927\u5fc3\u7d30\uff0c\u7e2b\u9aa8\u53ef\u5c0f\u81f3\u53ea\u95ca\u534a\u5206\uff08\u7d042\u6beb\u7c73\uff09\u3002\u9019\u7a2e\u5de5\u85dd\uff0c\u5e38\u898b\u65bc\u660e\u6e05\u5b58\u4e16\u8863\u670d\uff0c\u5728\u6c11\u570b\u6642\u671f\u7684\u7537\u88dd\u55ae\u9577\u886b\u4ecd\u80fd\u898b\u5230\u3002\u5f8c\u4f86\u53ef\u80fd\u7531\u65bc\u5b83\u8cbb\u6642\u3001\u8cbb\u5de5\u592b\uff0c\u4ee5\u53ca\u4e0d\u518d\u6d41\u884c\u4e2d\u5f0f\u55ae\u886b\uff0c\u5b83\u6f38\u6f38\u9000\u51fa\u4e86\u6b77\u53f2\u821e\u53f0\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u6ce8\u4e00\uff1a\u300a\u570b\u670d\u88fd\u4f5c\uff08\u56db\uff09\u300b\u99ae\u7dba\u6587\u7de8\u8457\uff0c\u53f0\u5317\uff1a\u683c\u81f4\u5716\u66f8\u6709\u9650\u516c\u53f8\uff0c\u9801121\uff0c\u5167\u6709\u88fd\u4f5c\u6559\u7a0b\u3002\u300a\u7e61\u7f85\u8863\u88f3\u300b\u725b\u7281\u3001\u5d14\u69ae\u69ae\u8457\uff1b\u6f22\u65cf\u6c11\u9593\u670d\u98fe\u8b5c\u7cfb\uff0c\u5d14\u69ae\u69ae\u4e3b\u7de8\uff0c\u5317\u4eac\uff1a\u4e2d\u570b\u7d21\u7e54\u51fa\u7248\u6709\u9650\u516c\u53f8\uff0c2020\u5e741\u6708\uff0c\u9801145\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Eel\u2019s bone seam (Shan1 Gu3 Feng2) is a traditional Chinese seam used in stitching clothes without lining. It was commonly used during Ming and Qing dynasty, until the mid-20th century. Its appearance is quite similar to flat felled seam or French seam, but the construction method is quite different. The finished seam is extremely narrow, usually measured between 2 to 4mm. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
\u9577\u886b\u7684\u524d\u5f8c\u4e2d\u7e2b\u63a1\u7528\u9c54\u9aa8\u7e2b\u3002\u70ba\u4e86\u4fdd\u6301\u7d71\u4e00\u548c\u7f8e\u89c0\uff0c\u9577\u886b\u7684\u5176\u9918\u7e2b\u4efd\u4e00\u5f8b\u4fee\u526a\u81f3\u8207\u4e2d\u7e2b\u540c\u4e00\u95ca\u5ea6\uff08\u5373\u5510\u5bf81\u5206\uff09\u3002
The front and back centre seams are eel\u2019s bone seam. The rest of the seams of this transparent cheongsam are trimmed to the same width as the eel\u2019s bone seam, which is 4mm wide.
\u9577\u886b\u8a2d\u8a08\uff0fCheongsam design by\uff1aImpression of time<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
\u7e2b\u9aa8\u95ca\u5510\u5bf81\u5206\u3002
3-4mm wide eel\u2019s bone seam<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
\u6c11\u570b\u6642\u671f\u55ae\u9577\u886b\u9c54\u9aa8\u5de5\u85dd\u7d30\u7bc0\u3002\u5716\u7247\u4f86\u6e90\uff1a\u5c0f\u7d05\u66f8\u865f\u300c\u7a7f\u9577\u886b\u7684\u5c0f\u4f19\u5b50\u300d\u3002
Close-up photos of Eel\u2019s bone seam on men\u2019s cheongsam in the 1930s-1940s. Photos by Xiaohongshu user 746688282.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
\u5169\u5c64\u7e2b\u5206\u4e00\u540c\u647a\u8d77\uff0c\u9023\u540c\u9762\u5e03\u56db\u5c64\u5e03\u6599\u4e00\u8d77\u7e2b\u5408\u3002
Two pieces of fabric, right side together, fold the seam allowance, and stitch all 4 layers of fabric together.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
\u5c07\u8eca\u7e2b\u7dda\u4ee5\u5916\u7684\u7e2b\u4efd\u526a\u6389\u3002
Trim the excess seam allowance.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
\u5c07\u56db\u5c64\u8eca\u7e2b\u597d\u7684\u4e00\u908a\u518d\u7ffb\u647a\u4e00\u6b21\uff0c\u628a\u6563\u53e3\u7684\u90e8\u5206\u6536\u85cf\u597d\u3002
Fold the stitched 4 layers once again, so that the raw edges of the seam allowance are hidden.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
\u624b\u91dd\u6311\u7e2b\u647a\u597d\u7684\u7e2b\u9aa8\u3002
Hem stitch the folded part onto the back of the fabric.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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